First Full Day in Jordan

I only have two days here, so I need to make the most of them. The plan is to visit schools tomorrow, so I decided to do a little sight seeing today, then hook up with friends later for a visit. I began my day by having a wonderful Jordanian breakfast. The second taxi driver of the day before gave me his number, so I called him to ask for a lift into town. He dropped me at the Citadel, agreeing to pick me up at King Hussein Mosque 3 hours later. What a change in the area! In just two years the Citadel has been transformed. I still recognized and remembered the temple of Zeus and the Umayyad Mosque, but much of the rubble had been cleared away and the paths and informative plaques were all new. So, too, was the museum displaying many fine artifacts from the early neolithic up through King David's time. When I get back to the monastery and my camera chord, I'll download and add the pictures. The view from the Citadel is panoramic, and the city lay out below, a pale jumble of minarets and apartments. But there was no call to prayer, as I stood looking out over Amman, and I missed it. I walked down the hill towards the Roman amphitheatre, which was much as I remembered, and the souk next to King Hussein Mosque. The souk is a crowded warren of stalls, shoved higgeldy piggledy into the space next to and behind the shops and mosque. I jostled my way through, looking for a snack, but not finding anything I was really interested in until I reached the apothecary/spice shop directly next to the mosque. There I found some zatar and made my purchase. I'm not sure how long it will keep double wrapped in plastic. I'll have to check to see if there is a recipe for it in my cookbook. Tired, but ready to head back, I awaited Rami, who promptly picked me up and delivered me back at my hotel. A call from Hiyam later woke me, and I met her and her husband downstairs for coffee and a visit. Mustafa was unable to join us due to car issues. I hadn't met her delightful husband yet, nor seen her beautiful baby boy. When last I saw Hiyam, she was pregnant with him, and not feeling too well. She's hoping to return to the US next fall for more study, and we joked that she might return pregnant yet again. Her baby is adorable. I knew I had a long day the next day, and Hiyam and her husband live an hour from Amman, so we made it an early night. Travel home to Beirut, then US tomorrow!

Two Of Us Return

All of us were saddened at leaving the monastery, but anxious to get home to family and loved ones. I don't think Jody or Sheila were looking forward to that long flight back. I know I'm not! We said our goodbyes the night before to Fr. Andre, who has been keeping a rather grueling schedule and hasn't slept for a few days. It seems that is often the case with Pere Andre. He works 24-7, with little rest. Fr. Johnny took us to the airport, and we managed to check in and had a last coffee and croissant together. As Jody mentioned, it's obvious Lebanon was once a French colony; the croissants are lovely! I was a bit aprehensive, traveling on my own to Jordan, but quickly the excitement of meeting my friends and making new ones overtook me. I managed to take the bus from the airport into Amman (it's between 35 and 45 JD to take a taxi and 3 JD to take the bus!) and then caught a taxi who dropped me at the wrong hotel! I caught another to the right one, and got situated. Manal called shortly after I'd checked in, and she and her family (minus the three younger kids) took me out for a fabulous Jordanian meal. Her husband offered to arrange for me to visit two schools in Madaba, and since I've had difficulties in getting in touch with the King's Academy there, I was so grateful. Mustafa called while we were at dinner, and is planning to have his cousin drive him into town from Irbid and take me out to dinner Monday night. People here are just so kind! I've missed my Jordanian friends and it's lovely to see them again. I only wish I could stay longer, but I confess to missing home and family, in particular my son, and so I won't be sorry to head home on Wednesday. I'll certainly plan to return to the Middle East, however, and hopefully sooner rather than later, and next time with John!

Our Last Day in Lebanon

We had an early start, today, meeting at the school by 7:30am to board a coach for a tour up North. Many of the teachers joined us, and we had a marvelous day of it! Our first stop was Tripoli, where we stopped for breakfast. Of course, Jodie, Sheila and I had Lebanese pastries with Georgia, though I've never seen Georgia eat one. It must be why she stays so slim! Maya found a Lebanese cookbook for me (in English) that Georgia said she also uses, so now I'm excited to try making some of the marvelous food we've all been tasting these last two weeks. After returning to the bus, we traveled up to a Maronite monastery. Fr. Andre explained to me that the people of Lebanon relate to St. Isaiah (I may have this name wrong; he usually holds a sword in hand) and the virgin Mary both; that they are opposites, in a sense, but they need both the strength of the sword and the gentleness of the mother in this war torn land. We lunched in Fr. Andre's village, after visiting a lovely church where the rosary was first said. The church was said to be devoted to the "lady of the washing", since women used to come far and wide to the little church to wash their sins away. We visited another lovely little chapel built from stones by a woman whose son was dying. She prayed to the saint to have her son spared for 10 years, and in return she would build the chapel. She did so, and her son was spared, though he did die just ten years later. Lunch was a fun filled affair, with plenty of food (of course) and dancing! Everyone joined in, even Sheila! On our way back from the far North, we stopped in the port again to take a little ferry ride. Tripoli is ideally positioned as a sea port, and Syria covets it. Over the years, this has caused strife within the region, but all is calm at present. We sleepily boarded the bus after our ferry ride, and said our teary goodbyes when we returned late that evening to school. We'll miss you, Lebanon, but most especially we'll miss the beautiful, generous, and warm hearted people who made our stay so memorable. I can't imagine a more lovely gift than the gift of their friendship.

Girls Night Out-Lebanese Style

We spent a lovely morning at the beach again today, but sorely missed our playmates, Michel and Nadia. They, of course, had school. But we enjoyed Rania’s company, and I even managed to capture a small sand crab before he disappeared down his little hole. On the way back to the monastery, Rania treated us to some delicious Lebanese treats; baklava, znoud el sit(my personal fav) and halawet al jeben. I’ve acquired a cookbook here, so at least I’ll have the names and pictures, even if I can’t follow the recipes! The afternoon and evening was spent at Maya’s. Rania and her two children joined us and we had a lovely time just relaxing with a Lebanese family. They had a darling Persian kitten named Sushi. I mentioned I needed a trim, and before you could say “Hey. Presto!”, Maya had me down in the salon below her apartment getting my hair done. Sheila was transformed as well and Jodie got her toes done, so we all had our “girl fix”. One of the things you learn quickly here, is that if you are a friend, you’re like family. The generosity and kindness showered upon you is both unending and SO heartfelt and sincere! Sometimes it overwhelms you, and you are so moved and touched that words simply escape you. We even had a chance to meet Maya's older brother, whom Maya obviously adores. Family is everything to the Lebanese. Children rarely leave home before they're married. It's quite uncommon, unlike the United States. Maya is obviously proud of both her mother and big brother, and she has every right to be! They were both charming. We were facing an early morning the next day, including Maya, so we all headed back to the monastery to begin packing and getting ready for our last day in Lebanon.

The Maronite Orphanage

One of the most wonderful experiences of the trip had to be our visit to the Maronite orphanage up in the hills above Beirut. The orphanage has recently come under the patronage of the Maronites, and the faculty and parents of AIS have started a social (justice) committee that is dedicated to helping causes such as this one. We viewed a marvelous video about the committee's work, which Maya narrated for us, and then traveled to the orphanage for a visit. After a short tour of the school and dorms, a visit to the classrooms, and a short coffee break, we all donned funny clown outfits and played with the children. They loved our goofy looks, although I think some of the younger ones were a bit scared! Fr. Johnny was the biggest hit, jumping about and playing with the children like a big kid himself. They just loved him! We did face painting, and had competitions and danced. The nurses and several teachers from AIS joined us as well, and their energy and enthusiasm for these young kids was infectious. After returning to the monastery and a brief rest, Mrs. Khoury and her three delightful children arrived to take us up the mountain for a lovely dinner outside. Jules, Nicolette and Audrey were charming! Dr. Khoury is the sponsor of this trip, and we've all remarked numerous times about how grateful we are for this amazing experience. Mrs. Khoury and her children just recently moved, and yet she still found the time to play hostess, and charmed us with her beautiful gift of elegant candles at the end of the evening. I loved Mrs. Khoury's beautiful French accent, and her candle factory, at one time in France, has since been moved (I believe) to Lebanon. She fits right in in this country where most people speak French as well as they do Arabic.

Notre Dame de Lebanon-Our Lady of Lebanon

Today began with a lesson in French flower dissection with Ms. Karin’s 6th grade. The children were delightful and they all helped me learn the parts of the flower in French. Some of the names are the same as English, and others are quite different, but they were patient with my fumbling French and sweetly presented me with the flowers that were left over at the end of the lesson. I was charmed. I spent a lovely day teaching Ms. Georgia’s 9th grade Chemistry about atomic structure and Ms. Maya’s 10th grade about the history of atomic theory, though we did start with a quiz on Symbiosis from the day before. They seemed a bit shocked that I would do that to them, but quickly got over it, and mostly did quite well on the quiz. After classes today, and before lunch, the three of us were entertained by the 1st through 4th grades. Mireille led them in singing songs and then their teachers helped them each with their presentations. It was just adorable. There was a wedding feast, a powerpoint all about us (apparently my hair is like the sun and my face is like the moon!) and then a contest where we tried to make Zatar on bread (Jody won), put together a puzzle of northern Lebanon (I won) and make a traditional hat (Sheila won). I guess we all have our talents. I’ve never been much of a cook! Perhaps my analytical side won out. After a late, but tasty lunch, we headed to Harissa with Fr. Johnny and Maya. We met Rania of the beach expedition along with her husband George, and their two children. We chose to take the gondola to Harissa instead of driving up. It’s a spectacular ride, with views out over the Mediterranean that take your breath away. Jody and Nadiya reenacted the famous Titanic scene from one of the gondola stations on the way up! Harissa is an enormous statue of the Virgin Mary atop Mt. Lebanon, and it is said that when she was placed atop the lovely little church over 100 years ago, she turned to face the sea. You can climb around the outside of the church, winding your way to the top, and pray to Notre Dame de Lebanon and look out over the truly spectacular views from the summit.

Later, Katya and her husband El came to the monastery to take us out for the evening. It was an absolutely delightful and relaxing time, enjoying the company of this young couple and their two young children, Jimmy and Joyen. We visited several local saint’s shrines and ended the evening with sweets at a local bakery. The children charmed us all, especially Joyen, with his amazing and beautiful eyes.

Bilblos or Jbeil

Monday we began our day teaching, and then spent the afternoon at the monastery catching up on laundry and email. It’s heavenly to have clean clothes again! Nicholas, Linda’s husband, picked us up around 8 pm for dinner at their house. They have three lovely children at AIS, two daughters and a son. Georgia was able to join us and Linda pulled out all the stops, as we say in the US, making a fantastic meal for us topped with a delicious traditional Lebanese desert. I really do need to find a cook book before I head home! Unfortunately, I left my camera at the monastery, but I think Jody got some good pictures that I may be able to add later. Tuesday we again taught in the morning. We’re finally figuring out where the classrooms are located and able to get around without constantly asking questions of everyone. It’s a good feeling. Fr. Freiha sits in the main hallway of the upper school, and is always available to ask directions, but I like not having to rely on others to find my way around. He has a basket, and all students deposit their cell phones in the basket as they enter in the mornings and then pick them up at the end of the day. Since the school is relatively small, especially in the upper grades, that’s not a huge issue. I can’t imagine collecting 8-900 cell phones at BBHS! How would you keep them all straight?! I taught an 11th grade Chemistry class…only 16 students, then on to a 10th grade class with Ms. Maya about Biology. They were giving botony topic presentations, one of which was symbiosis, and I gave them some examples from the Pacific Northwest of the three types of symbiosis. Tomorrow I’ll give them a short pop quiz! We’ll see how well they listened! After a lovely lunch at the monastery, we headed to Biblos, also called Jbail, with Nadine and Jozian. I’m getting so spoiled…meals are always so lovely here. Everyone sits down and there’s rarely fewer than 3 or 4 dishes served, with fruit to follow. The American tradition of eating on the run seems to be absent here altogether. I’m definitely adopting the fruit after meals idea. I just love that. Of course, the melons here are to die for, they’re so delicious. Nadine and Jozian took us to the Lebanese American University first. It has two campus’, one in Beirut, and one outside the city nearer Biblos. It’s lovely there, much quieter, though they are doing a great deal of construction. The University is growing. I was particularly interested in their summer Arabic program. I’ve found I love learning languages, and certainly the best way for me is to be immersed in the culture as I assimilate the unfamiliar sounds and sentence structures. Mr. gave us a tour of the campus, and it is obvious that he takes great pride in his lovely University and its excellent course offerings. The old ruins of Biblos were next on our agenda. Jozian found a marvelous guide at the monument who charmed us with his knowledge and wonderful sense of humor. A former teacher himself, he taught us how to write our names in Phoenician and pointed out many of the most interesting sights. Biblos is considered to be one of, if not the oldest, inhabited cities in the Middle East. Nineteen different cultures conquered, stayed, and then moved on or were ousted by newcomers. Of course, one of the most famous inhabitants was the Phoenicians. At this ancient site they’ve found evidence of the Phoenicians magnificent burial jars everywhere, and inside the jars were the dead, buried in the fetal position and ready to be reborn into the next life. Even the jars were womb shaped. He pointed out the theatre and the tombs, as I recall they found seven tombs on the sight, and six had been robbed. These tombs were made by digging an extremely deep hole for the sarcophagus, then filling the hole with sand and setting the sarcophagus atop this. After the body was sealed inside the sarcophagus, they dug out the sand from underneath and around it, gradually lowering the sarcophagus down inside. I’m not sure how the diggers ever got back out! Maybe they didn’t! Jody played the king, as our guide told us of playing in the ruins as a child and using a local plant to paint themselves as the ancients once did. I think she made a very impressive king! Shopping in the local souk followed, and we all found treasures to bear home before heading back to Ajaltoun and dinner with the parents association. Unfortunately for us, we had no time to return to the monastery to change, so we were feeling a tad dusty and dowdy for such an elegant restaurant, but our hosts were so charming that we were soon laughing and forgetting to be self conscious. Parents who send their children to Catholic schools share a common theme worldwide: their children are their life, and they are interested and concerned about their preparation for later education and for their future. It was a joy chatting with the lovely people at my end of the table. We shared pictures of our kids, talked about the similarities and differences in culture, and what we most enjoyed about Lebanon. Lebanon is a fascinating mix of the old and the new. They are redefining themselves, it seems to me, choosing what parts of western culture they wish to incorporate, but wisely maintaining the pieces of their own culture that give them distinction and make them unique. I could honestly tell them that I love it here, that I love their sense of family and community. They treasure that and I find it so delightful. Moving back to Seattle last year to be closer to my family was one of the best decisions I’ve made, and my only regret being here in Lebanon is that my family, in particular my son, isn’t here to share all this with me.